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Purchasing a Puppy | Purchasing a Puppy |
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| Written by Administrator | |
| Sunday, 11 February 2007 | |
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Go To Dog Shows Go early and talk to people, introduce yourself, and collect names. Remember, as people are getting ready to show, they may be nervous or pre-occupied. Be patient and willing to wait until their "turn" is over. Try to decide what type of dog you like or don't like. Ask what breed clubs they belong to, and avoid those who don't belong to any. GSRC recommend breeders belonging to a club that adheres to a Code of Ethics. Contact your local superintendent for information on upcoming shows. Do Your Homework Try to visit as many breeders as possible. Don't be afraid to ask questions, especially if you don't understand what is being said or the terms being used. The breeder may seem reluctant to sell you a puppy until they know more about you. A reputable breeder will have as many questions to ask of you as you will of them. Expect to be interviewed and to meet with the breeder on several occasions. A reputable breeder will usually keep track of you and your puppy, and provide you with information on conformation or obedience, agility, herding, or any other type of training. A reputable breeder will answer your questions and assist you with any problems for the lifetime of the dog. Therefore, if you don't like the breeder, don't buy a puppy from that person. Instead, find a breeder you are comfortable with. Be Patient Don't expect to buy and take home a puppy in one day. Most breedings are planned well in advance, and many breeders will place you on a waiting list. This is especially true if you've done your homework and you want a puppy from a specific breeding or breeder. This will give you time to make proper arrangements at home for your puppy. Contracts, Guarantees, and More A reputable breeder will sell you a dog only after you sign a contract. Don't buy a dog without one, but make sure it is a contract you can live and honor. This contract should guarantee the health of the puppy, clearly spell out the price, state what is expected of both the breeder and the buyer, indicate if the puppy is "show" or "pet" quality, outline what faults the breeder guarantees against, and provide some provision for the buyer if the puppy develops one of these faults. A reputable breeder will allow you to see the sire and the dam of the litter (if they are on the grounds). A reputable breeder should also give you written instructions for the care and feeding of the puppy, and the pup's health records. Some breeders will even sponsor you and pay your first year dues in a local breed club. Not All Breeders Are The Same A great deal of the success you will have with your dog depends upon what happened to the dog before it came to you: its socialization, genetic background, and early conditioning are the results of the breeder's efforts. The Rottweiler has recently seen a surge in popularity, and many so-called "breeders" are now advertising in popular dog magazines or newspapers. Carefully investigate breeders before you buy a puppy. Not all private breeders are conscientious. Commercial establishments like kennels specializing in "attack" or "aggressive" Rottweilers, pet stores, "puppy mills", or even private individuals breeding multiple litters a year can not give the individual attention needed by the puppies, let alone new owners. You Get What You Pay For Expect to pay an average of $500 to $1,500 for a puppy. It may be a bit more than some of the puppies in the newspaper, but you're saving money in the long run when you don't have to deal with temperament problems or severe health issues. Pet shops charge as much if not more than a reputable breeder, with all the problems of a "backyard breeder" and no guarantees. Health and Tests To Ask About Hip dysplasia is a problem in this breed. It is an inherited and/or developmental disease in which there is a malformation of the hip joints. Puppies should only be bought after careful investigation of the parent's and grandparent's hip status. The parent's hips should be certified by The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA). OFA issues OFA numbers only if the dog is 2 years or older, and it is very important that the breeder show you the OFA certificate for both parents (Hips are rated as excellent, good, or fair; all else are dysplastic). You can also verify hip status on the OFA website. Genetics is only part of the cause, therefore OFA certification is not a guarantee that your puppy will not develop hip dysplasia. It does however, show that the breeder is trying to produce healthy, functional dogs. Elbow dysplasia is also being x-rayed for, and OFA numbers for those passing elbows are being issued. OFA has also set up a registry for normal hearts and thyroid. CERF stands for Canine Eye Registration Foundation, and certifies that eye and lids are disease-free. Rottweilers are susceptible to Parvo virus. After the puppy receives a series of Parvo vaccines, a Parvo titer can be run at 4 months by your vet to measure the pup's immune response. This tool can verify whether or not your puppy has enough immunity to the Parvo virus. Do not take your puppy to the park, dog shows, or for walks around the neighborhood until the puppy has finished the vaccination series and/or had a titer. Many breeders test their puppies at approximately seven weeks of age to try to predict the puppy's future temperament (called a Puppy Aptitude/Temperament Test). A reputable breeder will try to place the right puppy with you and your family and may not let you just pick out your own so be flexible. You may want the first one you pick up or that comes to you, but the breeder may know that that particular puppy is not best suited for you. By no means should you take home a puppy less than seven weeks of age. The earliest time for a puppy to leave its mother and littermates is somewhere between seven and half to eight weeks of age. "Pet Quality" vs. "Show Quality" "Show Quality" is a term that is often misunderstood. It usually means a puppy with no disqualifying faults at the time of sale and has potential as a show or breeding dog in the future. Breeders vary on the amount of experience they've had with grading litters. Their ability to critically evaluate their own stock, and their understanding of what the term "show quality" means is not always accurate. All lines carry one or more "faults" and the breeder should be able to give you a candid description of what is in the dog's genetic background. Remember, the nicest puppy in a litter can turn into a very mediocre adult. When you buy a puppy, it's just that: a puppy. No one knows if it will have all its teeth, a scissors bite, a solid topline, or will pass OFA in the future. Be prepared to critically evaluate your dog because even if you paid a good price, you may still end up with a pet quality adult. "Pet Quality" is a term used to describe a dog that has one or more faults (an incorrect bite, white spot, missing teeth, etc.). These dogs are not to be bred and the reputable breeder may require that the dog be spayed or neutered before signing over the AKC papers. They generally are sold on what is called "Limited Registration" with the AKC, meaning that if the dog is bred anyway, the litter cannot be registered. These Rottweilers make good companions and can be shown in other types of work, such as obedience, herding, and agility. Many times these faults are very subtle and, for the average owner, are not noticeable. The Rottweiler Standard Each breed has a "standard" (a description of the ideal dog) approved by the AKC. A reputable Rottweiler breeder breeds their dogs to the AKC Rottweiler standard, and therefore ads that say "large boned" and "huge" may not indicate a well bred dog. Even poorly bred dogs often have "champion bloodlines" somewhere back in their pedigree. "German imports" aren't always the best, and it is even possible to register a litter (fraudulently) with the AKC that isn't purebred. Remember, the AKC is a registration organization, and does not regulate breeding. "Papers" do not assure health or quality. Expenses To Consider The Rottweiler is an expensive breed to maintain compared to most other breeds. Depending upon the size, age, and activity level of your dog, it will consume from fifteen to twenty five pounds of kibble each week. Good quality kibble costs around $20 to $40 for 40lb. Veterinary care for routine immunizations, worming, ear/skin care, etc. can average $500 a year. Spaying of a female or neutering of a male runs approximately $100 to $150. Article source: Golden State Rottweiler Club
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